4. Watching the bears

The walk to the falls in the river where the bears congregate is about 2 miles through two muddy creeks and a thigh high river. The hip waders we had hired were essential and also helped to keep our legs warm when we got to the viewing pad. I do think that chest waders of the dungaree type with proper hiking boots over them would be a better option if you can get them. As a short person I found that the water was dangerously close to overflowing the top of my boots at crotch level on one trip across the river. There is a short climb up a small cliff but on the whole the walk is not too difficult and the rangers set a slow pace so that everyone can keep together easily. About half way on the walk there is a stop at 'toilet rock'. This is the only place away from the camp where ablutions can be done in some privacy. Everyone just takes their turn behind the rock. It certainly is a 'loo with a view' and much fresher air than the outhouses at camp.

Above the falls there are 2 leveled out viewing platforms where people can sit to watch the bears. The rangers have camping chairs stored in a small overhang under the top platform and so everyone has a seat for the day. The bears have become accustomed to seeing humans in this spot and once there, you cannot move around much and have to sit for several hours in the icy wind. We were not too well prepared on the first day and did not layer up quickly enough after our warming walk through the mud flats. Our ranger Tony took pity on us and took us for a couple of walks back up the pathway to get the blood circulating again.  However nothing really detracts from the sheer thrill of seeing about 15 brown bears standing in the water looking for salmon. Each bear has a favored spot and a different fishing style and soon we were able to tell them apart and start to identify individual bears. The older more dominant males take the upper falls and the younger males and females the lower. Some bears dive under the water and swim around while another sat with his back to the water and waited for the fish to come to him. He was really successful and we saw him eat about ten fish that he caught this way. The bears come and go and as the day gets later there are more bears.

You have to take a packed lunch and we found that energy bars, snack bars and chocolate were all easy to eat and carry. We also took a thermos flask of hot drink and some rolls with ham and cheese.

Walking back to camp at about 7pm we were met by the ranger from the camp who had come by boat to fetch us. They do this when the tide is high enough to make it possible and it was a very welcome although bumpy and wet journey. However the thought of the sauna, hot and inviting, makes you happy to return to camp.